Wandering the Dalmatian Coast

Mostar

A long bus ride from Split to Mostar in Bosnia-Herzegovina (long name for a small country). Mostar’s claim to fame is the new old bridge. The original bridge was built in 1556 to handle freight across the Nerevta River. In 1993, during the Yugoslav war, the bridge was destroyed. After the war, the bridge was rebuilt using the same materials and design as the original bridge.

The medieval aspects of the city are overshadowed by the disturbing remnants of the “recent” war. With the death of strongman Tito, a power vacuum resulted in the Balkans and Tito’s 25 year effort to create a Yugoslav identity faded into history. While few areas of Yugoslavia were in fact ethnically dominated by one group, the politicians and more vocal citizens acted as if there were more ethnically pure regions. The Serbs seem to have been the most outspoken about their needs to be recognized and honored. Time passed, demands increased and fighting began.

The scars of war are evident in Mostar with bombed out buildings throughout the city. Walls pockmarked with bullet holes are a reminder of the recent conflict. The emotional scars are also evident. Our local guide mentioned multiple times that the ethnic groups are getting along, divisions are forgotten, friendships are crossing the ethnic divide. Given how often we were reassured that all was well, I suspect there is still significant animosity between the different groups.

This is the last major stop before we head back to Dubrovnik and board the Sea Cloud for our cruise down the coast.

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